Dazzling waterfalls. Gorgeous natural swimming pools. Soaring mountain passes.
Welcome to Theth.
This northern valley has exploded in popularity in recent years, with tourists from all over the world clamoring to see Albania’s formerly remote and unknown alpine peaks for themselves.
And it’s worth the hype. The government has invested heavily in connecting this previously disconnected area of the country to Tirana and Rinas International Airport, building a brand new toll road that connects the airport directly to a 40-minute-long drive to Shkodër, making it a three-hour journey. The roads have been recently asphalted, making the scenic drive pleasant and hassle-free.
Nature lovers, hikers and swimmers will find plenty to admire and do in Theth. And the best thing? These Alps (unlike their Swiss, French and Italian cousins) won’t break the bank.
(Before you head into Albania’s wild beauty, check out our Albanian Night show in Tirana – a perfect introduction to the spirit of the country.)
These are the best things to do in Theth on your next trip to Albania:
1. Walk Through The Village of Theth
The charming village of Theth is a low-key pastoral town nestled along the snow-capped mountains that ring this stunning valley. You’ll find plenty of guesthouses with little old ladies churning butter and tending to livestock, farmers who still plant everything by hand and shepherds guiding their sheep through different pastures.
It’s common for traffic jams to happen – because a sow and her litter may be crossing the road, or a herd of goats is making its way to nibble on some mountain herbs across the path!
Take in the sights and enjoy the calming sound of nature: birdsong fills the air most mornings in this picturesque village, and the verdant foliage makes for an incredible backdrop for the traditional stone houses that line its dirt and stone paths.
2. Admire the Church of Theth
Your first stop in the village itself has to be the Church of Theth, a storybook Catholic house of worship that makes for an ideal photoshoot spot. The church was originally built at the end of the 19th century; during communism, when the government forbade the practice of any religion, the church fell into disrepair. Since the fall of the regime, local organizations and community members have helped refurbish and restore it to its former glory.
The church’s structure is simple yet beautiful, built in traditional stone style with a modest bell tower that compliments the towering mountains behind it. There is also a beautiful signpost next to the church wishing for peace upon Earth in 4 different languages, reflecting Albania’s beautiful message of religious coexistence and tolerance for all peoples regardless of their faith.
3. Lock Yourself in at the Lock-In Tower of Theth
Ready for some history? The village of Theth is home to one of the country’s most infamous stone tower houses, a traditional kulla where families used to lock themselves in to protect themselves against marauding bandits, Ottoman battalions and vengeful neighbors.
Welcome to the Lock-In Tower of Theth, a 400-year-old structure that used to provide safe haven to villagers seeking safe haven from vengeful enemies while mediators sought to reconcile blood feuds. According to the Kanun of Lekë Dukagjin, if someone murdered your family member, you were entitled to do the same, predictably leading to some chaos and violence in these villages. This tower provided those seeking safety from hakmarrje, blood feuds, respite and protection
A descendant of the original owners, Sokol, charges a few euros for entry and explains (in Albanian) the history of the tower to those who want to go inside the two-storeyed structure.
4. Take in the Majesty of Grunas Waterfall
Theth’s first natural wonder you can easily access from the village is its waterfall, known as the Grunas Waterfall, which is between 25 and 30 meters tall. As the sun sets on this exquisite source of water for the local village, you can usually see a rainbow refracted from the mist. Originating in the Boshi Peak, its source is meltwater that makes its way down to the valley through a narrow, rocky gorge cutting into limestone bedrock.
The water here is freezing, so it’s quite refreshing to take a dip in its shallow pool during the summer. The walk from the village is pretty flat, with some ups and downs, and takes around 30-45 minutes each way along a well-trodden path.
5. Hike, Bike or Shuttle to Ndërlysaj
You’ll want to hit Ndërlysaj, the nearby village where the trail to the Blue Eye begins. Eight kilometers away, you can hike, bike or take a shuttle bus there from the village – we recommend starting early in the morning so you have time to explore everything in the area.
The hike follows a well-worn trail and can take 90 minutes to two hours. It’s well worth it – you’ll follow the beautiful Theth River and see amazing mountain summits along the way! If you’re too tired at the end of the day, you can hop on a shuttle back to the village; it costs 5 euros each way (as of April 2025) and takes about five to ten minutes.
The bike ride is similarly worth it, since they’ve paved the roads – you can take pretty much any bike with properly-inflated tires and it’ll take no more than twenty minutes. The road is carved out of the mountainous rocks and also follows the Theth River.
6. Hike to and Swim in the Blue Eye of Theth
Once at Ndërlysaj, you’ll be able to grab a quick coffee or bite at the restaurants and cafes where the shuttle drops you off/the path ends at the hydroplant. You can already start to get a feeling for what the Blue Eye will look like here, as a large, tranquil pool of water forms here near the eateries.
Follow the well-marked trail along the river. There are viewpoints to see the river below – during spring and winter, the water roars as it crashes through the rocky riverbed, which some have taken to calling the Stone Groves of Ndërlysaj. As you make your way on the trail, there’s one particularly eye-catching spot to stop for a swim along the hike (photo below) before you hit the Blue Eye.
The hike from Ndërlysaj to the Blue Eye takes around an hour. This watering hole is freezing-cold and attracts international visitors year round. I recommend going to the top of the trail and taking photos from the small restaurant above the natural spring, and crossing the rickety bridge above it. Adventurous hikers can even lower themselves down into a natural slide that’s extremely smooth and comfortable to splash into the massive natural pool.
7. Discover The Forgotten Village of Kaprre
If you’re an avid hiker and want to explore more secluded areas, you can walk to Kaprre, known as the Forgotten Village of Theth. This slightly eerie yet quaint village is no longer inhabited and shows what life must have been like in centuries past. An abandoned stone mill stands next to the river, and lying down in the grass here, you can forget time even exists with the cicadas chirping and grasshoppers jumping along the tall blades of grass.
This is the perfect spot to stop and reflect on your day or soak up the beauty of nature, far away from crowds.
8. Hike the Theth-Valbonë Trail
Albania’s most famous hike is worth the trip. The 17-kilometer Theth-Valbonë trail takes most hikers between 6 and 10 hours, depending on their level of fitness, and goes as high as 1,795 meters. This trail is considered moderately challenging, with plenty of ascents and descents.
The views here are breathtaking and can’t be described in words. No technical hiking skills are required – just bring plenty of water, snacks and your boots! It’s a trail best undertaken when temperatures are low so you don’t get dehydrated, between June and October; otherwise, the trail may have snow, making it difficult and potentially dangerous.
You can sleep in the opposite village or arrange for a transfer back to where you’re staying.
9. Enjoy a Traditional Meal in a Bujtina, Albanian Guesthouse
After a long day of hiking, enjoying nature and learning about Albanian history and culture in Theth, you’ll be exhausted and will need to recharge your batteries! Your bujtina will likely have food included in your stay, so make sure you check in with your host what time dinner and breakfast are served.
Typical dinners in Theth include lots of fresh dairy since the region has ideal conditions for raising cows, goats and sheep. Typical dairy products served at dinner include djathë i bardhë (white cheese) and kos (yogurt). If you’re lucky, your host may also serve up steaming hot groshë (beans) and roasted lamb or goat, a specialty in Theth. These are often served with potatoes with fresh herbs. Most hosts will also serve plenty of freshly-baked bread along with recently-churned butter, locally-made jams and honey produced by the bees that pollinate the wildflowers of Theth valley.
You’re sure to eat local and enjoy your meal immensely. Finishing up the day with a traditional Northern Albanian meal is the best way to end your trip to Theth.
If you don’t get the chance to eat traditional food in Theth on your next trip to Albania, be sure to make it to Albanian Night’s dinner and show, an interactive experience where you get to dress in authentic Albanian clothes for an interactive and lively show, followed by a 7-course meal afterwards. You can’t leave Albania without trying some local cuisine!
