Admit it: Gjirokastër has caught your eye.
Who could blame you? The Stone City, as its known to locals, is one of Albania’s most beautiful picturesque old towns, with gorgeous views of the Drino Valley and surrounding mountains dominating the landscape. Quaint cobblestone streets, a lively bazaar and an imposing castle watching guard over this UNESCO World Heritage city’s inhabitants give this town a unique skyline and feeling you won’t find anywhere else.
Located 230 kilometers south of Tirana, this ancient merchant town is best visited with an organized tour, such as the one offered by Albanian Night.
But if you’re looking to go on your own or on the off season when tour operators aren’t taking visitors to the south, we put together this guide to help travelers figure out how to get to Gjirokastër and what to do in Albania’s most magical medieval city.
How to Get to Gjirokastër from Tirana
Public transportation, roads and general infrastructure in Albania have improved plenty the past couple of years, making getting to Gjirokastër from Tirana easier than ever.
If you’re looking to rent a car and drive to Gjirokastër, the road is fairly straightforward: you can go through Durrës, where the road is a bit smoother but often has more intense traffic depending upon the time of day, or Elbasan. Both routes will take you a little more than 3 hours.
If you want to take public transportation to Gjirokastër, head to Tirana’s North/South Bus Terminal. Daily buses will take you directly to Gjirokastër for approximately 12 euros, or 1.200 ALL, each way. Timetables are accurate and tickets can be purchased directly on Gjirafa Travel’s website.
How Long to Spend in Gjirokastër
A day trip – if you leave Tirana early enough – is perfect for discovering Gjirokastër. Those who want to use the city as their base for exploring nearby attractions or to continue further south – to the Albanian riviera or to Greece, for example – will find that two days are the most needed to fully experience Gjirokastër and its nearby attractions. Anything more than two days may start to feel like you’ve booked too long a trip for this destination!
What to do in Gjirokastër
Gjirokastër is a unique and welcoming medieval merchant class city whose sights and offerings can’t be found anywhere else. The architecture takes you back in time to the Ottoman era, when stone-roofed houses, cobbled streets and grand mansions lined the hillsides, showcasing the wealth and influence of Albania’s former elite.
Get Lost in the Gjirokastër Castle
The highlight and absolute best thing to do in Gjirokastër is to get lost in its massive, sprawling castle complex. This place is home to the town’s museum, the most extensive and informative in the entire country, which takes visitors through the country’s prehistoric past through its medieval era up until modernity.
History lovers who want to get a firm grasp of Albanian history have their work cut out for them at this castle. You can easily spend 2-3 hours just in the museum, which showcases artifacts, clothing articles and weapons from Albania’s different eras for users to get a better understanding of this region’s past.
Used in World War II as a prison and strategic stronghold, Gjirokastër Castle housed political prisoners. The hallway leading to the castle’s outdoor pavilion offers a display of the artillery used by the Allies during their battles with the Nazis, including captured weapons and a preserved American aircraft, believed to have crash-landed in Albania during the war.
With roots dating back to the 4th and 5th centuries, this castle has seen multiple empires and invading forces throughout the years, each of which has left its mark on the stone walls. Its highly-Instagrammable clock tower, often called Gjirokastër’s enchanting time teller, was constructed by Ali Pasha of Tepelenë in the early 19th century and has since become a symbol of the city.
Every five years, the Gjirokastër Folk Festival is held at the castle’s promenade and pavilion. During the day, this area provides breathtaking views of the city of Gjirokastër and its surrounding nature.
Delve into Albania’s History at the National Museum of Armaments
For just an additional 200 ALL (2 euros), you can visit the top level of the castle, home to an eclectic and fascinating collection of socialist realist art pieces. Socialist-realism is an art form that promoted the interests and values of communist dictatorships around the world, and Albania’s flavor of this painting style showcases the country’s partisan fighters fending off and liberating the homeland from Nazi Germany. A collection of old rifles and other weapons are arranged throughout this level of the castle.
One of the creepiest things to do in the castle is to continue exploring the top level of the castle and enter old jail cells where regime dissidents were held. The graffiti and scratchings of prisoners are still on the walls, writing out pleas for freedom, names of loved ones and cryptic messages that hint at the suffering endured within these cold, stone chambers.
Explore the Site of Enver Hoxha’s Former House, Now an Ethnographic Museum
Did you know that Albania’s communist dictator Enver Hoxha is from Gjirokastër? Located on the site where the former house of communist dictator Enver Hoxha once stood, the Gjirokastër Ethnographic Museum isn’t a tribute to the dictator but rather a meticulously reconstructed representation of traditional houses in Gjirokastër. Perfect for those curious to understand what life was like in Gjirokastër’s heyday, this museum seamlessly blends classic cultural elements borrowed from various houses in the city. Originally built between 1964 and 1966 after the destruction of Hoxha’s birthplace, this four-story building showcases the lifestyle of a 19th-century Gjirokastër family, complete with authentic artifacts, household items, folk costumes and kitchenware.
Go Deep Underground in The Cold War Tunnel
This bunker museum, similar to Tirana’s Bunk’Art museums, offers visitors a glimpse into the paranoia and preparations of the communist era under Enver Hoxha. Built secretly, this 800-meter-long tunnel was used as an emergency shelter due to the dictator’s fears of foreign invasion, particularly after Albania’s split with the USSR.
This authentic atomic bunker has retained its original ambience, showcasing a decontamination room, the generator room housing a rusting Czechoslovakia-made generator and the air filtration room. The guided tour lasts around 20 minutes and takes visitors through dark and cold spaces that will make you feel like you’re living in the second half of the twentieth century again! Well-preserved artifacts like rotary dial phones and old power generators take you back to an era when the very real fears of nuclear war dominated.
Step Back in Time at Zekate House
Constructed in 1811-1812, this three-story tower house, or kullë, is one of the finest examples of Gjirokastër’s Ottoman-style architecture. Such houses were common among Gjirokastër’s wealthiest citizens; this one belonged to Beqir Zeko, a trusted administrator of Ali Pasha, the powerful local ruler. The houses’ strategic location in the Palorto quarter gives it sweeping views over the valley and city.
Anyone interested in learning about how Gjirokastër’s elite lived should visit the Zekate House: the gentle yet powerful energy permeating this house is hard to miss, with decorative motifs still lining the walls. The house boasts robust defensive designs, storage rooms, a kitchen and a cistern, while the first floor accommodates family living spaces. The panoramic balcony overlooking the town contributes to the house’s allure and provides excellent photo-taking spots.
Explore the Skenduli House
Dating back to the early 1700’s and having undergone renovation in 1827, this house represents an exceptional example of Ottoman-era architecture in southern Albania. Skender Skenduli, one of the wealthiest Gjirokastër inhabitants at the time, built this grand home that features 64 windows, 40 doors, 12 rooms, 9 fireplaces and 4 Turkish baths. The current owner, Nasip Skenduli, offers visitors a guided walk through the house to explain its main features to visitors.
The Skenduli House, once repurposed as the Ethnographic Museum during the communist era, has withstood the test of time and has welcomed many guests throughout its long life. This traditional house is a must-visit: here, visitors get an inside look into the daily lives, gender roles and celebratory traditions of the Ottoman period that dominated Gjirokastër life.
Visit Albania’s Literary Star’s Home – The Kadare House
Gjirokastër punches well above its weight with yet another famous inhabitant, world-renowned Albanian writer, Ismail Kadare, calling this town home. Born and raised in this historical house in 1936, Kadare spent his childhood within its walls, later immortalizing its every corner in his acclaimed work, “Chronicle in Stone.” This house was built in 1799 and was eventually declared a cultural monument in 1991, undergoing extensive renovations under the supervision of UNESCO and the Albanian Ministry of Culture.
The house still contains personal objects belonging to the Kadare family, making a stop at this grand abode a must-visit for literature enthusiasts, history buffs and those intrigued by the intersection of personal narratives and cultural heritage. Located in the historic Palorto neighborhood, it’s easy to see Kadare’s descriptions of daily life in “Chronicle in Stone” come to life within these walls.
Marvel at the Bazaar Mosque
Among the three mosques built in the late 18th century, Xhamia e Pazarit, the Bazar Mosque, is one of the most magnificent and strategically-located houses of worship in Gjirokastër. This mosque was the only one to survive the regime’s crackdown on religion and gained monument status in 1973. An inscription inside bears an inscription dating back to 1177, and its balcony offers sweeping views of the bazaar and city below.
Shop at the Gjirokastër Bazaar
No merchant city is complete without a traditional bazaar, and Gjirokastër is no exception. Located in the heart of the old city, this bustling thoroughfare is home to dozens of shops hawking Albanian souvenirs, traditionally-made rugs, clothes and other artisanal goods. Restored recently with the support of the Albanian-American Development Fund, this area of town is perfect for doing some shopping and enjoying rakia (traditional Albanian spirits) in a lively and vibrant setting.
The bazaar’s current architecture, featuring two to three-story buildings, reflects the artisanal heritage of the city. While most of the structures standing today were severely damaged in the 19th century, restoration efforts have brought new life to these streets, where tourists can witness artisans working in time-honored ways. Known as the Stone City due to its rich history of stonecutting, stonemasons here today continue to carve stone and create beautiful mantle pieces and decorative designs for tourists and locals alike to enjoy.
Enjoy Nature at the Ali Pasha Bridge
Ali Pasha’s Bridge, also known as Dunavat Bridge, typifies the historical engineering marvels of the 19th century in Gjirokastër. Under the command of Ali Pasha of Tepelenë, the powerful figure who ruled this area of Albania and nearby Greece during the Ottoman Empire, this bridge was part of an extensive aqueduct system designed to supply water to Gjirokastër Castle from Mount Sopot. Although much of the aqueduct system was demolished in 1932, the section in the Dunavat Quarter, featuring the iconic stone bridge, has endured the test of time.
It takes approximately 30 minutes of hiking to get to Ali Pasha’s Bridge. This walk provides a unique and off-the-beaten-path experience. The trail winds through a maze of houses before opening up to a valley with amazing views. The bridge itself, showcased in the mid-19th-century painting by the British poet and painter Edward Lear, is 16 meters high and 40 meters long and offers a wonderful place to relax in nature and take pretty photos.
Where to Eat in Gjirokastër
Gjirokastër boasts a rich culinary tradition that is distinct from other regions of Albania. Two of the city’s most distinctive dishes you have to try are qifqi and oshaf. Qifqi is a fried rice ball that’s typically savory and crunch, whereas oshaf is a sweet goat’s milk dessert topped with nuts and cinnamon, with figs at the bottom. These delicious dishes are available in most traditional restaurants in Gjirokastër.
Hotel Bar Restaurant Kodra – Where to Eat with a View in Gjirokastër
Perched on a hillside overlooking the city’s iconic slate-roofed houses, Hotel Bar Restaurant Kodra offers one of the best dining views in Gjirokastër. From the terrace, guests can take in sweeping vistas of the historic stone city, with the castle looming in the background and the Drino Valley stretching into the distance. The menu features traditional Albanian dishes prepared with fresh, locally sourced ingredients, including slow-cooked lamb, grilled vegetables and homemade byrek (savory filled pastry).
Odaja – Where to Eat in the Gjirokastër Bazaar
This restaurant is located in the bazaar and offers authentic Albanian fare with reasonable prices. The family-run establishment embodies the warmth and hospitality of Albania’s traditional taverns. The warm ambience, wooden interiors and stone walls make eating here feel like dining at a local friend’s house. The local menu, offering signature Albanian dishes like qofte (meatballs), petulla (mini fried pancakes) and homemade jams will leave you full yet asking for seconds! A select few tables upstairs are set on the balcony, offering an especially scenic setting for dinner above the bustling bazaar.
Taverna Tradicionale Kardhashi – Off the Beaten Path Restaurant in Gjirokastër
This restaurant is located in the Dunavat quarter and is a perfect place to stop at for lunch on your way to or from Ali Pasha’s bridge. Definitely off the beaten tourist path, this eatery offers a small, no-frills and down-to-earth setting where you can experience generous portions, fresh ingredients and welcoming service. The grilled lamb, tave kosi (baked yogurt and lamb dish), and homemade pickled vegetables are to die for. For those looking to escape the crowds, Kardhashi is your go-to restaurant in Gjirokastër.
This UNESCO gem deserves its spot at the top of your itinerary to the land of the double-breasted eagle. Whether you’re looking for unique natural landscapes, distinctive historical settings or to try authentic local food, a visit to Gjirokastër is a must on your next trip to Albania!
